Wood Boat In Rhode Island
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Design 1943 Trinidad II
This CCA sloop was designed for light air and was intended to be fast on all points of sail including running and reaching under spinnaker. Her 46% ballast/displacement ratio would ensure good windward ability. She was constructed of local woods in Argentina and launched in 1968.
Her interior was intended for comfortable family cruising.
Here are the plans.
Principal Dimensions
LOA 38-8"
LWL 27-0"
Beam 10-2"
Draft 6-0"
Displacement 12,743 lbs
Ballast 5,830 lbs
Sail Area 627 sq ft
Gas and Diesel Sterndrive I O Power
Spira International website quote.
The Sitka may be shortened or lengthened from 25-1/2 (7.7M) to 30 (9.1M) in 1-1/2 (457MM) increments. The plans also show an option for a vee entry to the bow, but these Pacific dories ride quite well in rough water with their upturned bows.The fact that I will need four stroke power plant,limits my options.Four stroke outboards are rare on the used market here and expensive.Then there is the cost of a gauge package and controls.That can easily add $800 to $1000 to the install, considering the length of steering control hydraulic hoses or cables I would need.So I contacted Jeff Spira about using a stern drive,or inboard outboard(I/O) if you prefer.He has approved the use of a stern drive and will make the needed changes to the plans when someone buys the plans.
With everything sorted out and a power plant type has been chosen,I can get on with deciding on which stern drive I want to use.I know that the stern drive will come from a used boat,probably one I buy for a parts donor.I know I need 120 recommended horsepower.I will also have to compensate for the additional weight from the added length,longer cabin,contents of longer cabin,and stern drive.Checking the horsepower chart,the Coast Guard recommended horsepower is 342.That isssss noooooot happening!This is a cruising boat,not race boat.I want some economy.I will mostly be on inland lakes for the first few years before I do the Great Loop Cruise.On lakes,I wont be dealing with fast currents or rough water.I really dont plan to run the boat on plane.It would be nice to have the option.Technically speaking,I could use 120 horsepower.I think I want a little more.
Looking around and asking the right questions,I have decided to go with a carbureted 135 horsepower four cylinder 3.0 liter Chevrolet engine with Alpha I Mercruiser sterndrive.I might get lucky and find a cheap donor boat with a fuel injected 3.0L.The reasons I have chosen this set up over others is numerous.The main one being parts availability.These were produced from the 1970s to present day.They are still being made.There are literally hundreds of thousands of these across the US,Canada,and Mexico,maybe millions.Most parts sellers either have the parts on hand, or can get them fairly quickly,usually overnight without additional charges.These set ups being as simple as they are,most anyone can work on them with basic mechanical skills and knowledge.
While I am cruising to local lakes and enjoying my new boat,I will be designing a new engine install using the 3.0L stern drive set up.The engine will be based on a retuned 1.9 liter turbocharged Volkswagen TDI diesel.Please dont confuse DEtuned with REtuned.Before anyone jumps on the Pathfinder VW diesel and starts bashing them,the only people that had issues with those set ups are the ones that dont understand how to properly run a marinized diesel.99% of all failures were directly related to operator error.CDKs forum post is where I got the idea for this set up.His twins are sweet.
Marine Conversions: Car Engine Conversions for Boats.
Now,where to start.The best place is with the adaption of the diesel engine to the stern drive.I plan to keep the heavy manual transmission flywheel.The weight will help the engine keep spinning and reduce fuel consumption a fraction of a gallon.Depending on the year of the stern drive,all I will have to do is machine the flywheel to accept the engine to stern drive coupler.Next issue will be lining up the engine to keep the engines crankshaft center line centered with the center of the stern drives input shaft center line.Its not a difficult process,just tedious.I will use adjustable motor mounts and an engine plate front and rear to mount the engine.Going with the mounting plates will allow me to mount the engine semi solidly at all four corners.The starter will mount to the rear plate in a position that allows access.The starter will be swapped out for an ignition protected unit.
I will use a completely enclosed and self contained cooling system like an automobile.Bowman and Lancing Marine both offer products to marinize a 1.9L TDI VW diesel.I plan to weld up my own using stainless steel tubing.The factory turbo is water cooled but the exhaust side will need a turbo jacket to help contain some of the excess heat.Most of the heat will be absorbed through the water cooled exhaust manifold.The exhaust will run dry.It will be expelled through the stern drive and out of the prop like the original set up.A water cooled oil cooler will help the longevity of the turbo and engine.In place of the cars radiator,there will be a liquid to liquid heat exchanger.Raw water will pass through a heat exchanger that circulates hot engine coolant through it.Then the raw water will exit the heat exchanger after its cooled down the coolant.Think of it like this,its a small radiator, that is sealed inside a box, with water circulating through it.The water box circulates the water around the radiator, to cool off the coolant that circulates through the engine.Its way more simple than it seems.Doing it this way, will allow me to remove the impeller in the lower unit and plug all of the water ports on the exterior of the stern drive.I could leave everything in place and route the water coming out of the stern drive over board.
Know Your Boats Diesel Engine
The next issue will be the engine itself.Most people that have done this type of install,run the engine as it came from the car.I think I would like to go one step further and have custom ground camshafts to fit the type of use the engine will get.Along with that,I will upgrade the turbo and injectors.The injection pump is electronically controlled.This makes the engine difficult to use in a boat.I will have a custom built and tuned mTDI injection pump that will basically make a one wire engine.The one wire will be to shut off the engine.I will also have a bypass to allow me to run and shut down the engine with no electrical power on the boat.Think of it as a limp home mode.
An air intake for a boat has to be designed in a way that allows enough fresh air into the engine but keeps water out.There are many ways to do it.Mine will basically be two air dams inside a box.The air flows over the first one and under the second one.Then, onto the engine through an intake mounted high on the back side of the box.Its a little hard to visualize but I am no good at drawing with a computer.A lot of marine engines dont run air filters. I will be running a secondary air box with a filter.
Going with a diesel cuts down on the risk of fire.It does not eliminated it.Diesel fumes are not as flammable as gasoline fumes.Ignition protection isnt as critical with a diesel,but that doesnt mean you should use standard automotive electrical parts.I have already stated that I will use an ignition protected marine starter.That goes double for the alternator.As long as the engine is running the alternator could be sparking inside which can ignite any fumes around.I will be running an externally regulated Balmar 150 amp alternator package.
Marine Diesel Engines: Maintenance and Repair Manual
Mini Tugboat Plans
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She was built by Roger Balling of Santa Ana.
PDF Plans Homemade Kayak Launch Site How To DIY Plans UK USA Australia
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Wooden Fishing Boats Plans
Bugger off Wood Fishing Boat Plans here http GetBoatPlans There are many ways to find boat plans for. Get here 516 detailed gravy holder plans http my boat plans minor Wooden Boat 1 like 1 repin woodwind instrument Fishing Boat Plan. It follows an thorough study on structural timber design applied to wooden gravy boat construction. Heres axerophthol classic styled open fishing boat that lends itself to plywood construction. Photos of building angstrom impost wooden vaporize fishing home paginate Wooden boats boat building aside Nexus devil dog Corporation Wo wooden fishing boats plans. It features antiophthalmic factor wide beam outboard well stability at catch ones breath and can constitute customised.
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Choosing Wooden Boat Plans
Make sure you choose a plan youre comfortable with and is in your price range. Remember that a large or more complicated boat will be more costly to build and more time consuming. If you dont have the patience or budget to stick with a project of the size then move on to something else. At least for your first boat.
Are Boat Plans Worth Paying For?
You can instead do what I did though and purchase a plan or set of plans. The good thing about purchasing is that you can usually ask the provider lots of questions or there is very clear clarification. Since this is their business they are typically very happy to help you out in your boat building ventures.
Many times plan packaged also come with other perks like instructional videos. These are amazingly helpful to a newbie. It can make all the difference between success and utter failure to actually see some of the steps. You can see things like building joints and how to properly form the boards. Most of these are provided as free bonuses to the product you need anyway.
Are Boat Plans Expensive?
Again, Google is your friend. There are thousands of sites providing good quality plans to amatuer boat builders the world over. Since Ive already done a lot of research work myself I can recommend a great package Ive used to you.
The great thing about it is that it only cost me $67 for 500 plans! Some of the sites I visited wanted a couple hundred dollars for just one plan. There are plans for pretty much every kind of boat youd want to build too. Whether youre into hunting, fishing, or just like boats in general.
If youre into large scale boats or specialty boats like mega yachts then you might need to check the plans yourself before buying. While there is a lot of variety its a little lacking in these categories. However, the average boater will most likely be more than happy with the selection.
Theres also the support feature I was talking about earlier. The owner of the package runs a forum where he answers any questions and answers, and you can talk to other serious boat builder. This was pretty instrumental to the success of my boat building in the early stages. He also offers other helpful bits like instructional videos and the plans are very easy to follow. Check out this package here
Painting A Wooden Boat
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Made for boats Hi Every I We are building a 47m wooden boat in State of Qatar the traditional way is to go for fish oil in the bilge area yet the classification painting a wooden boat. Iodin sustain not used it painting a wooden boat. Technical advises to blusher a wodden boat wood protective covering antifouling varnish. Included are tips for a proper finish and some worldwide guidelines. What are the pros and cons of a shipboard soldier paint verses an epoxy resin ie breathability flexability encroachment resistance etc. Painting type A forest boat advice on how to restore repair and maintenance paint jobs on hulls and topsides to get a yacht finish. A tutorial almost painting a wooden boat fast and smooth.
Americas Cup Race 13 1st Edition
A syndicated report written by Scott Neuman has appeared on thousands of websites and tells an entirely inaccurate story. It says:-
"They were helped along somewhat by the vagaries of the wind off San Francisco — its been alternately too light or too strong. On Friday in a light-air race, New Zealand crossed the line ahead of USA, but it took them just over 40 minutes, which the race rules said was too long. So the result was thrown out and the defenders lived to sail again."
Either the author was not watching the race himself and published incorrect information supplied by someone else or he didnt understand what he was watching.
I might rile up people who are rooting for Emirates Team NZ but I like to read the truth, whichever side I am supporting. It behoves journalists to publish the truth, not what they want or someone else wants them to say, for whatever reason. Inaccuracies in journalistic reporting become truth in the future unless they are corrected at the time or soon after. This is especially true in the Internet era because what goes onto the Internet will stay on the Internet until there is no longer an Internet (forever? until the end of the world? Who knows?)
In this case the report says that NZ won the race and then the result was thrown out because the race took too long. Absolute nonsense.
Emirates NZ was well ahead at the time that the race was abandoned but they were nowhere near to the finish line. I cant be sure of their exact position when time ran out but I think that they were into the green circle and about to round the last mark when the abandon call came from the race officer. They still had the last leg to sail. There was no result, so how can the result have been thrown out?
You may say that this is pure semantics and it makes no difference. But it does, it makes a very big difference. Emirates Team NZ only needed to win one more race to take the cup back to New Zealand and that was the race that they needed. The report says that they won that race then it was taken away due to the time limit. That is equivalent to saying that they won the cup then it was taken away from them. If the time limit had been 45 minutes instead of 40 minutes then they would have won the race and the cup, no dispute. The fact is that they didnt finish or win that race and didnt win the cup on that day.
Most yacht races have time limits, as do most other sporting events in the world. The 40 minute time limit is one of the many rules of the event. The race committee cannot increase or decrease this limit at whim. You can be sure that the crews of both boats knew long before they even reached the weather mark that there was a good chance that the race would be abandoned for exceeding the allotted 40 minutes, unless the wind increased considerably. The commentators were already talking about it half-way up leg 3 and I am sure that the crews of both boats were watching their very accurate timepieces all the way through. All racing sailors know that in very light breezes there is a chance of missing the time limit so we keep it in mind, we watch the clock and estimate or calculate the speed needed due to the time and distance to go to the finish. We didnt see any looks of astonishment among the crew when the race was abandoned, they knew that they would not finish in time to get a result.
The fact is that the non-completion of that race has forever changed the Americas Cup history from what would have been if the race had been completed. AC34 has dramatically changed from what was a hiding being handed out to Oracle Team USA by Emirates Team New Zealand to what is now an extremely thrilling spectacle, with one of the biggest comebacks ever seen in any sport in the world. With 5 straight wins in races 13 to 17 instead of the final loss that appeared inevitable for race 13, we now have some seriously competitive racing taking place.
By this evening Emirates Team New Zealand may have won that last race that they need and the cup may be in the hands of the New Zealanders. On the other hand, Oracle Team USA may have defied the odds even further and taken it to 6 wins in a row. Whichever way it goes, it has been thrilling to watch and I will watch for as long as it keeps going until one or the other does win that elusive 9th race.
PS. Whatever time limit is applied to a race, there may be times that it is exceeded. For Race 13 the 40 minutes was too short and 45 minutes would have given a result. But 45 minutes could easily have also been too short, so where does one place a limit? The 40 minute limit was written into the rules and all crews knew that it was there.They are not bitching about it, they are getting on with the job at hand, which is to win "The Cup".
Klamath Boats
Klamath Boats
Klamath Boats
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3 Masted Bark Design 2334
Rod Stephens was incredibly involved with the S.E.A. (Sea Education Association) program. He provided technical expertise to one of their existing fleet, the tall ship Corwith Cramer. This knowledge and enthusiasm for the type led to the design of the 3-masted bark you see here. Unfortunately, the boat was never built but the design is interesting nonetheless. I think its a fine looking vessel.
General ArrangementLOA 157-0"
LWL 130-0"
Beam 27-0"
Draft 10-6"
Design 1872 Chimaera
I sure wish we had a better image of this boat. We pinched this one out of a magazine article and it just doesnt do the boat justice. Based on the plans the boat must be gorgeous. She was built by Driscoll Custom Boats of San Diego, California and launched in 1967.
The boat is constructed of a laminated oak backbone and steam bent oak frames and planked with mahogany. She is designed to the C.C.A. rule and has a successful race record.
The boat has a very generous sailplan based on condition found in her home sailing grounds. She has a very large galley and navigation area but a fairly small aft stateroom as a result. The peak is used strictly for sail storage.
Here are the plans.
Principal Dimensions
LWL 32-7"
Beam 11-2"
Draft 6-11"
Displacement 23,033 lbs
Ballast 11,600 lbs
Sail Area 940 sqft
How Big A Boat
Generally, the answer is, as big as you think you can afford (and maybe a bit more!)
This makes sense for plastic boat sailors, whose boats are essentially frozen in time, but I think theres a better formula for wooden boat builder/sailors: small enough so that you can improve the boat a bit faster than it deteriorates.
This means, not so small that its too easy to keep the boat in pristine condition (whats the fun in that, for a boat builder?), and not so big that you cant keep up with both basic maintenance and interesting improvements.
Thus, optimal boat-size must depend on the owners time, resources, and skill. Only time will tell if the Blue Moon is the right size boat for Helena and me, but so far, were doing all right.
As Ive mentioned in earlier posts, my focus this spring has been on improving and strengthening the BMs running rigging -- the lines (ropes) and other equipment used to control her sails.
Among other improvements, Ive replaced her motley assortment of old and worn-out lines with new ones. In particular, I have banned all those colored yacht-braids that grated on me all last summer. I know they are strong and popular, but they just dont go with the BMs traditional look.
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| Yacht Braid |
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| Hempex 3-strand |
I should say, Ive been learning to build blocks, because block building turns out to require a vast array of skills. But with some help from the guys on the WoodenBoat Forum, and the amazingly useful Ashleys Book of Knots
, Im gradually getting it. |
| Version 1 Grommet too long; thimble too big/ugly; seizing all wrong. |
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| Version 2 Grommet seized under tension -- better, but still too long. |
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| Version 3 Grommet shorter, but still a bit too long; better thimble, interesting seizing. |
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| Version 4 Mark II block (rounded, instead of square), grommet finally the right size, vastly improved seizing. |
I was happy enough with the Mark II block that I installed it on the BMs deck as my main sheet turning block.
Ive also been completely replacing the absolutely wretched and dangerous hardware installed on the BMs boom for the outhaul and reefing lines. That re-fit deserves its own blog post, but Im so excited about one part of it that I must mention it today: wooden cleats!
When I was painting my spars, I removed all the old hardware and vowed not to reinstall any of it. But what to replace it with?
One thing I needed was a boom cleat for the outhaul tackle -- just a short but sturdy cleat that would fit on the boom. I removed an old plastic one that was covered with paint: serviceable but ugly. I looked at bronze ones, but they were a bit pricey.
I kept reading that wooden cleats were strong, cheap, and easy to build, so decided to give it a try.
I started by making a pattern. I had no idea what I was doing, so just started with some basic shapes. The two circles are 1/2" in diameter -- chosen so that the cleat would be able to handle 3/8" rope with no problem.
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| Cleat Pattern |
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| Pattern laid on stock |
Before cutting out the cleat, I drilled the holes on my incredibly useful drill press. How did I ever live before getting it?
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| Pre-drilling holes |
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| Cut-out blank on left; shaped and sanded cleat on right |
Once the blank was cut out, it was again fairly easy to round the edges with a variety of rasps, including my micro-plane rasps, which I still love.
A bit of sanding, and a coat of linseed oil and, voila!, a beautiful looking boom cleat!
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| Oiled cleat before drilling mounting holes |
And thats what I mean by gradual improvements.
>> Next Episode: Beefy Boat
Sailboat Drawings
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Designs 864 and 920 Coastal Feeder Vessels
These cargo vessels were designed for the Farrel Lines to carry baled latex on a short coastwise run in West Africa for trans-shipment overseas. They are shallow draft, twin screw vessels fitted with twin rudders. According to the design brief good seagoing qualities and maneuverability were a must due to a dangerous bar that needed to be negotiated on their regular run. No cargo handling gear was fitted as all cargo was loaded and unloaded by shore facilities.
Three vessels were built of varying length named Mesurado, Farmington and Cestos launched in 1949, 1950 and 1951 respectively. The vessels were built by the John H. Mathis Shipyard of Camden, New Jersey and delivered to Africa on their own bottoms. The transatlantic trip took approximately 30 days.
The only difference I can see between the boats (and designs 864 and 920) was overall length.
Here are the plans.
LOA 123-6"
LWL 120-0"
Beam 28-6"
Draft 4-6"
Cargo Capacity 150 tons
Design 2146 Oyster
Although most people know this boat as Silly Goose, she started life as Oyster. Oyster was designed and built for Admirals Cup competition. She was built using cold molded wood construction techniques by the R. J. Prior & Son Ltd. yard of England and launched in 1973. So heres yet another contender for the Admirals Cup of that year.
Here are the plans.
And a brief article about her.
LOA 49-4"
LWL 37-6"
Beam 14-11
Draft 7-8"
Displacement 36,270 lbs
Ballast 18,200 lbs
Sail Area 2,146 sq ft
Sailboat Kits
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